Gimmelwald: After several different train rides and cable cars up up into the mist covered Alps (and a short stop in the village of Murren to gather supplies of the edible variety) Trey and I arrived in Gimmelwald, a small Alpine Village with significantly more cows than people, two roads, and no grocery store. Our Hostel was a pretty little Chalet with colorful flowers in the window boxes and a breathtaking panorama of the alps in front of it. We agreed that it was by far the best view we've ever had as we brushed our teeth in the morning and peered out the open window above the sink at a sort of majesty that I had never before (and never have since) witnessed.
My only regrets concerning Gimmelwald are twofold: First, that we did not stay longer, and second, that we were allotted less than ideal accommodations. After completing our check-in, the friendly Swiss hostess/bartender informed us that, "you'll be staying in the lover's room." I decided I must have heard her wrong. But despite Trey's diligence to designate with every reservation that it would be himself and his SISTER, I peered horror-stricken at our information slip and saw the words clearly printed at the top: "Lover's Room." My chagrin only deepened when we actually reached the room to find that it was a large room with about 20 bunk beds all pushed together essentially into a giant form of what the gentlemen of Founders might mockingly call a "love bed." oh my... That was the first, and ONLY time I will ever sleep on a giant bed with 20 other people. Although I admit in hindsight that the situation was quite laughable. At the time, Trey seemed to find it a bit more hilarious than I myself did...
As to my first regret, that will be a given after full explanation of our day in the Alps.
We awoke early and headed out in the closest thing we had to Alpine hiking gear (which turned out to be jeans, sweaters, Tevas and Keens...), and rode a cable car up to the peak of Schilthorn. (Check it out: http://www.swisspanorama.com/html/schilthorncam1.html ) Schilthorn is a 2900 meter peak and apparently owes a portion of it's fame to the 007 movie "On Her Majesty's Secret Service". On the top we had a delicious breakfast next to the panorama windows in the revolving restaurant, Piz Gloria, which included everything from cereal to coffee to pancakes to champagne. Then, after fatting ourselves for a few hours and watching for a sign of the mountains through the thick cloud cover, we set out on the greatest hike of my life. The first few miles were a bit rough, trudging our way through about a foot of snow in places (keep in mind that I'm wearing sandals throughout this) and laughing at the contrast of our casual appearance with the serious hikers with snow boots and poles. We actually had a couple at the head of the trail look at us like we were crazy people and say, "You're going to walk down that? Are you sure that's a good idea?" But, believe me, it was well worth any numb toes and slippery going. I couldn't possibly begin to explain how breathtaking this whole experience was. It was the most surreal feeling I've ever had walking along surrounded by those silent snow-capped mountains, watching the mist sweep along between them and across our path. As we climbed further down, bubbling mountain streams ran down from and melting snow and delicate little wildflowers began to peep through the snow until they became an absolute sea of color around us. If I have ever felt like I could jump into the air and take off in flight, it was standing there in the Swiss Alps with the wind in my hair.
I must admit that I was forced to give a little rendition of "The Sound of Music." Trey exhibited more self control. ;)
Munich: Munich, the city of excessive drinking... this was not the most anticipated destination in my mind, but it, just like all the captivating cities we visited, won me over. To be perfectly honest, our time in Munich was largely spent day-tripping outside the city itself. We opted out of getting sucked into American tourist traps like the Hofbrauhaus and instead had both of our meals in the city at a smaller more locally frequented beer hall. Let me tell you something about German food: it is GOOD. And let me tell you something about German beer: it is AMAZING. We had some delicious meals of Pork Schnitzel, potato flapjacks with apple sauce, and blueberry pancakes (which is, like I said, more like a cake than a crepe and has ice cream on top), as well as sampling their signature beers.
Our first day in Germany, we took the train to Neuschwanstein, the fairy tale style castle of Ludwig II of Bavaria. Apparently Ludwig liked to play around with his country's money by building idyllic palaces, which is why he soon accidentally, and rather mysteriously, drowned in 3 feet of water with several unaccountable bullet holes in his back... Regardless of the slightly opulent and squeamish history involved, however, the place really did look like something out of a fairy tale. About a mile from the castle was a waterfall tumbling into a gorge which was spanned by a large walking bridge. Despite a great deal of rain, we stood and surveyed the castle and gorge from that bridge with utter delight. I felt like I was in a novel.
Day two in Munich we hiked to a Monastery called Andechs. The hike was relaxing and beautiful, and the Monastery itself was resplendent-there was a sort of gaudiness to it that shocked me a bit, I think I had pictured something more like the dark and dank places of gothic novels-but the coolest thing about this place was that it had a huge dining hall, where one could get typical German cuisine, as well as beer brewed specially by the Monks themselves (in fact, as I write, I am sipping juice from a small glass stein with Andechs painted on it). Trey and I were apparently the only non-Germans in the place, which gave us a satisfying sense of authenticity. We both got a pretzel and a beer (his was a full liter, but I resigned myself only to a half-liter), and hunkered down to enjoy our tasty treasures, reminisce about the path behind us and the journey yet to come, and do a healthy amount of people watching. I was amazed to watch German men sit down together for lunch and consume a full 2 liters of beer each, without showing any sign of the alcohol intake. Admittedly, I was sufficiently unsure of myself after my .5 liters so that I chose my footing carefully on the stairwell out.
Another highlight which I almost forgot about Munich was the event of the Eurocup final. We happened to be in town for the final match between Germany and Spain and found the streets before the game thronged with balloons, flags, painted faces, honking horns and general hilarity. Unfortunately, this all abruptly vanished into an oppressive silence at the game's conclusion and Spain's authoritative victory. As boring as I found the game itself, I felt extremely sorry for the disappointed fans that surrounded me.
Vienna: This city seems more of a blur in my mind for a variety of factors. One is doubtlessly the oppressive heat, another is possibly because we had grown too lethargic in the face of this heat, my own longing for America, and the advent of Independence Day to dish out all of our money on admittance to the countless museums. Nonetheless, some of my most treasured memories from our adventure are set in Vienna. We trekked around town and saw the venerable faces of the Hofburg, the Schonbrunn, Mozart's house, The State Opera, and St. Stephen's Cathedral, as well as the gorgeous Hapsburg gardens and Mozart's Memorial. We decided to actually pay and enter the Imperial Library (the Hofbibliothek), which was well worth the sum paid. It was reminiscent of the Duke Humphrey's Library, a three storied room with high domed ceilings (ironically picturing the apotheosis of Karl VI). We got to see some beautiful manuscripts.
Our second day in Vienna was a laughable, but treasured, Independence day (my birthday). In hopes (at least on my part) of finding a spring in which to swim, we day-tripped out to the town of Baden: frequented getaway of Beethoven and the Hapsburgs. We arrived to find a very commercialized resort spot, in which there were spas, casinos, etc. and no hope of a natural spring to swim in. But our spirits were still high and after obtaining a map at the tourist information center, we headed to Kurpark Baden bei Wien, which is esteemed as one of the best gardens in Austria. It was, indeed, quite beautiful, and we had a nice little picnic in a small grecian temple structure beneath the bust of Beethoven, and gazing up at yet another painted dome, this time picturing the apotheosis of Beethoven. On the way out, I was also pleased to find a fountain that put off quite a bit of spray and enabled me to jump around like a child of 4, giggling in the cool vapor. Trey, once again, exhibited more self control, but was very indulgent of my insanity, recognizing that it was, in fact, my birthday.
We finished the day out with dinner at "Happy China" and gelato from "Zanoni and Zanoni," and then headed back to the hostel where we actually witnessed a firework display across the city, over the tops of buildings. I will treasure it as one of the strangest, and most precious birthdays.
And now... Slovakia must wait for one more installation. I have now dwelt amidst my memories for too long, and the stresses of schoolwork are bearing down on me. It is a misty, rainy, sleepy sort of night, and I intend to burrow into my couch with a cup of tea to soften my Global Trends reading.
